Starfruit Bavarian Creme
hy Hector Wong from www.myyellowkitchen.com
This recipe is based on the Apple Caramel Charlotte from the book Rose's Heavenly Cakes (Rose Levy Beranbaum, 2009).
There are several methods to make bavarian cream. This recipe makes the most ethereal bavarian cream: full flavor, incredibly airy texture, yet it slices perfectly. This recipe works very well with starfruit instead of apples. It is also lovely with longan, lychee, and any tropical fruit that can be poached.
When using starfruit, I prefer Koloa rum instead of Calvados and Kona rangpur or lilikoi juice instead of lemon juice. My favorite salt is Hawaiian or Alaea salt. My favorite vanilla bean is from Hawaiian Vanilla Company. Also, I prefer Maui turbinado sugar instead of white refined or superfine sugar. When making the caramel or the italian meringue syrup, heat the turbinado sugar to 25 degrees lower because it caramelizes at a lower temperature compared to white refined or superfine sugar.
I measure in grams. Accurate and easy to use digital kitchen scales are inexpensive and widely available. Baking by grams is faster and easier.
Plan ahead, this recipe is multi-step, and most steps can be done ahead of time. The completed dessert freezes perfectly for several week
APPLE CARAMEL CHARLOTTE
(excerpts from the book Rose's Heavenly Cakes, Rose Levy Beranbaum, 2009)
(the layered biscuit encase is omitted)
SERVES: 8 to 10
When this European-inspired cake is made with a Bavarian filling, it is one of the most complex and elegant desserts the finest restaurants and confiseries can offer. In this version ethereal slices of layered biscuit encase a caramelized billowy crème anglaisebased filling that blends perfectly with the apples: The peel can give the apples an exquisite pale pink color during poaching. If using Golden Delicious or Granny Smith apples, you can achieve this by adding the peel of a red apple such as McIntosh. (However, don¹t use McIntosh for poaching because it is not firm enough to hold its shape.) In fall, some of my favorite apples are Macoun, Stayman-Winesap, Cortland, Jonathan, and Baldwin.
PLAN AHEAD: Poach the apples at least 1 day or up to 3 days ahead. Compose the charlotte at least 8 hours before serving.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: One 9-inch springform, loose-bottom pan, or a flan ring at least 2 1/2 inches high.
2 to 3 tart baking apples: 454 grams
water: 354 grams
sugar: 50 grams
Calvados or apple brandy: 28 grams (2 tablespoons) lemon juice, freshly squeezed: 2 teaspoons
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Just before poaching, peel the apples, reserving the peel if it's red to add color to the syrup. Cut the apples in half and use a melon baller to core them.
In a saucepan or sauté pan just large enough to hold the apples in a single layer, combine the water, sugar, Calvados, lemon juice, vanilla bean, and the apple peel, if using, and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the apples hollow side down and bring the liquid to a boil over medium heat. Immediately reduce the heat to very low and place a round of parchment on top of the apples to keep the rounded tops moist. Poach tightly covered at a bare simmer for 5 minutes. Carefully turn each apple over and continue poaching for about 7 minutes, or until a wire cake tester inserted in the thickest part of an apple enters with only a little resistance.The apples should still be slightly firm. Watch carefully toward the end to prevent overcooking so that they keep their shape.
Remove the pan from the heat and cool at room temperature, covered only by the parchment; it will take about 1 hour to cool completely. Transfer the apples and their syrup, including the vanilla bean and peel, to a bowl. If not using immediately, cover it tightly and refrigerate until ready to use.
Drain the apples, reserving the liquid and vanilla bean and discarding the peel. Leave the apples in the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Remove the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the liquid (rinse, dry, and reserve the pod for another use). If necessary, reduce the liquid or add water to equal 1 1/4 cups of syrup. (To reduce, use a 4-cup heatproof glass measure in a microwave on high power, or a small saucepan on the stove top.) You will need 1 cup of poaching syrup for the custard filling and 1/4 cup for the glaze. Separate them into two containers, keeping them covered to prevent evaporation. Refrigerate the 1/4 cup for the glaze.
Apple Caramel Custard
reserved syrup from poaching apples: 266 grams, divided powdered gelatin: 10 grams (1 tablespoon) about 5 large egg yolks: 93 grams
sugar: 100 grams
water: 30 grams (2 tablespoons)
Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a large (2 quarts or larger) mixing bowl.
In a small bowl, place 2 tablespoons of the reserved poaching syrup and sprinkle the gelatin over the top. Stir to moisten the gelatin. Cover tightly with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation.
In a small heavy saucepan, using a silicone spatula, stir the yolks just until smooth.
In another small saucepan (or a heatproof glass measure if using a microwave on high power), heat the remaining reserved poaching syrup to the boiling point. Keep it hot.
In another small heavy saucepan, stir together the sugar and water until the sugar is dissolved. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Once it comes to a boil, cook without stirring until it turns a deep amber (370°F/188°C or a few degrees lower because its temperature will continue to rise). Remove it from the heat, and as soon as it reaches temperature, slowly and carefully pour the hot poaching liquid into the caramel. It will bubble up furiously.
Return the pan to very low heat, stirring, until the mixture is uniform in color and the caramel is fully dissolved.
Very gradually at first, stir the caramel poaching liquid into the yolks, stirring con- stantly. Stir in the gelatin mixture and salt. On medium-low heat, bring the mixture to just below the boiling point (180° to 190°F/80° to 88°C). Steam will begin to appear, and the mixture will be slightly thicker than heavy cream. It will leave a well-defined track when a finger is run across the back of a spoon. Immediately remove the mixture from the heat and pour it into the strainer, scraping up the thickened cream that settles on the bottom of the pan and pushing it through with the back of a spoon or silicone spatula. Set aside to cool completely.
2 egg whites: 60 grams
superfine sugar: 66 grams
water: 30 grams (2 tablespoons)
cream of tartar: 1Ž4 teaspoon
PLAN AHEAD: Make the meringue a maximum of 30 minutes ahead of using it to fold into the bavarian cream mixture.
Have ready a 1-cup heatproof glass measure. Pour the egg whites into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater or into a medium bowl and have ready a handheld mixer.
In a small heavy saucepan, preferably nonstick, stir together the sugar and water until all the sugar is moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring and reduce the heat to low (if using an electric range, remove the pan from the heat).
Beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy.With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.
Increase the heat and continue to boil the syrup until an instant-read thermometer registers 248° to 250°F/120°C (the firm-ball stage). Immediately transfer the syrup to the glass measure to stop the cooking.
If using a stand mixer, with the mixer off to keep it from spinning onto the sides of the bowl, add the syrup to the egg whites. Begin by pouring in a small amount of syrup. Immediately beat on high speed for 5 seconds.Add the remaining syrup the same way in three parts. For the last addition, use a silicone scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the glass measure and scrape it off against the beater. If the syrup has hardened before most of it has been poured, soften it to pouring consistency for a few seconds in the microwave.
If using a handheld mixer, beat the syrup into the egg whites in a steady stream. Don¹t allow the syrup to fall on the beaters or they will spin it onto the sides of the bowl.
Lower the speed to medium and continue beating for 2 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside until the bowl is no longer warm to the touch,or refrigerate for 5 to 10 minutes, until 70°F/21°C.Whisk it after the first 5 minutes to test and equalize the temperature.
heavy cream, cold: 232 grams
Apple Caramel Custard
Calvados or apple brandy: 28 grams (2 tablespoons) Italian Meringue
In a mixing bowl, pour the cream and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.
(Chill the mixer¹s beaters alongside the bowl.) Whip the cream, starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high as it thickens, until it mounds softly when dropped from a spoon. Cover and refrigerate it while chilling the apple custard.
Cool the apple custard by placing the bowl in a larger bowl of ice water (see page 478) with about 1 tablespoon of salt added to the ice water; the salt will speed chilling. Stir occasionally for the first 10 minutes and then constantly but gently for about 10 minutes. If you prefer, you can refrigerate the mixture and stir occasionally for the first 10 minutes and then every few minutes.When a small amount dropped from a spoon mounds very slightly before disappearing into the surface, and the mixture starts to set around the edges but is still very liquid, remove the bowl immediately from the ice wa- ter bath and, using a large balloon whisk, whisk in the Calvados.With the whisk, fold in the Italian meringue and then the whipped cream just until incorporated.The mix- ture will be billowy but soupy, like melted ice cream. Finish by using a silicone spatula to reach to the bottom.
Pour the mixture at once into the lined ring and smooth the surface evenly with a small offset spatula. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before applying the apple slices.
Apple Rose Decor
Use a sharp thin knife to slice the poached apples lengthwise into 1Ž8-inch slices. Starting at the outer edge, but not overlapping the cake, place slightly overlapping rings of apple slices with the hollow cored side facing the center. Start with the larger slices and save the smaller slices for the center rows.
reserved syrup from poaching apples: 66 grams arrowroot or cassava: 1 teaspoon
In a small heavy saucepan, combine the poaching syrup and arrowroot and heat, stirring constantly, until thickened. Remove from the heat and, with a clean artist¹s paintbrush or pastry feather, coat the apples lightly with the glaze. If the glaze doesn¹t go on smoothly, thin it slightly with a few drops of Calvados or hot water. Cover the pan with an inverted bowl or domed pot lid and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 3 days. It can be frozen for up to 3 weeks.
1 1/2 cup starfruit, sliced
1/2 cup red onion, sliced
1 cup sliced cucumbers
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup red pepper, julienned
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
1. Slice cucumbers in half and then on bias.
2. Mix with 1 1/2 tsp salt and let sit for 10 minutes.
3. Slice other vegetables, mix and dress with vinegar, sugar and 1/2 tsp salt.
4. Add cucumbers.
6 ripe bananas
3 pieces starfruit
1/2 cup tamarind water
(Tamarind paste mixed with water into an even consistency.)
1/3 cup fresh Kona lime juice
1 tablespoon Kona lime zest, grated
2 tablespoon Hawaiian ginger root, minced
1/2 habanera pepper
1 red bell pepper, diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
2/3 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground coriander
salt and pepper to taste
Put all ingredients in stock pot, except bananas, bring to a boil and cook until tender.
Add bananas and cook for 30 seconds.